15. Less Distance, Better Control
Intentionally Make It Harder to Fly, Making It Easier to Control
This method uses casting ability to catch fish. What is different from other types of fishing? Unlike other types of fishing, where fishing begins after dropping the lure where want it to fall, fishing begins even before the lure falls, that is, when control the trajectory of the lure.
Here I will introduce tuning methods that I think will make it easier to create a lure trajectory that stimulates the predatory instincts of fish. Also, I'm a stickler for throwing lures with one hand, and most of this blog post is written with the assumption that be throwing with one hand. In addition, since each person has different muscle strength and the fishing tackles they use, I am not sure whether you will be able to get the same results.
1.
Baitcasting Reel with Poor Spool Rotation
Even if the spool shaft is distorted, the rotation of the spool will be poor, but that is not the case in this case, and by using a spool bearing that poorly rotate well, the rotation of the spool will be intentionally made poor. This is based on my experience, but I believe that it is easier to control the trajectory of the lure with a setting that uses a bearing that rotates poorly than with a setting that does not use a bearing that rotates poorly.
Normally, it is said that reducing the weight of the spool and installing a spool bearing that rotates well will make it easier to throw. But, if want to control the trajectory of the lure until it lands in the water, I think it is easier to cast by installing a bearing that does poor rotate and taking advantage of the poor rotate of the spool. I've put it into practice and think it makes sense.
The truth is I didn't know that a poorly rotating bearing would make it easier to throw, but it just happened on its own. After using spray oil sold at home centers for many years on micro ball bearings, they began to spin poorly. And as the rotation of the spool gets worse, the lure are less likely to fly, so weaken the brake. Eventually, even if completely turn off the brake, backlash will be less likely to occur, but for me, getting the reel in this state is the most important tackle setting when using this fishing method. However, in my case, it takes years for a single bearing to reach such a state.
Also, with the poor rotation of the bearing, the noise and vibration will increase, and may feel a heaviness when turning the reel handle. In some cases, some people may find them unpleasant, but in my case, the noise and vibrations make it easier to understand the timing of the thumb braking, so I have no problems at all.
By the way, I only use shaftless spool.
2.
Nylon with Low Elongation and Poor Slippery
I only use nylon line because it's easier to throw than fluorocarbon or braided line, but I especially choose one that doesn't stretch as much.
The reason for this is that when use a stiff rod to momentarily force the rod to rebound, if the line stretches, will disrupt the feeling of throwing the lure.
Also, when controlling the trajectory of a lure, if momentarily apply a strong thumb braking, the line will stretch slightly, which will disrupt trajectory control. The stretched line also has a negative effect on the controllability during lure swimming because the reaction to follow the rod work is slightly delayed when retrieving the lure.
Slippery Lines are not Good for Trajectory Control
I keep the line as dry as possible. This is because if the line is slippery, the thumb braking will be less effective. If the line gets wet, I throw a lure at it and let it dry. Fortunately, this method uses a lure close to the surface, so the line rarely gets wet. The nylon line I currently use has an additive coated on its surface that makes it slippery, and when it's new, it's extremely difficult for me to use. However, as continue to use it, it becomes less slippery and easier to use.
It is said that the nylon line deteriorates quickly, but if thick line, It can be used for a reasonably long period of time.
The advantages of using a line with poor slippery are that can hold down the spool with a light force immediately after Pressing the clutch button, and that the thumb braking when controlling the trajectory works well with a light force. By the way, I don't use the thumb braking at the spool edge, I use the thumb braking at the touch only the line.
Another thing to say is that it is not good if the skin of the thumb that comes into contact with the line is poorly slippery. Therefore, it is necessary to make the skin smooth. In my case, after throwing a lure dozens of times and using the thumb braking, the skin on my thumb automatically becomes smooth. I believe that the combination of a poor slippery line and smooth skin is the best for delicate thumb braking.
Also, if the tip of the thumb is sticky, it will be difficult to make fine adjustments using the thumb braking, so clean fingertips, reel handle, clutch button, etc. by removing excess oil and fat from them.
I use a thick, low-stretch nylon line with a diameter of 0.405mm to 0.470mm, with an emphasis on strength. However, when the thick line is released, the spool line decreases in quantity rapidly, and it takes practice to follow it with the thumb braking.
3.
Poor Slippery Guide
I prefer to use the old guide. This is a dark brown old ring that is less slippery than the Sic ring. However, I use thick lines, so I don't use the small diameter guides that are now commonplace. The passage of thick, poor slippery lines through the guides is not compromised, and only when thumb braking is applied, does a poor slippery line come into strong contact with the poor slippery ring guide.
That is the image I have in mind.
Titanium Frame Guide with Old Ring
The frame is discolored because it was burnt, but I removed the Sic ring and replaced it with an old type dark brown ring. The old type guide frame is strong, but its disadvantage is that it is heavy, so if you want to reduce weight, you can replace it with a such as titanium frame like this.
Various Types of Guides
What I look for in a bait tackle is an easy to control trajectory of the lure. It is not enough to just line up guides that are slippery well without thinking. Setting up rod guides is complex, time-consuming, and very profound, But If you want to try please do some trial and error considering the diameter and type of line used the number of guides, the type of ring and diameter and thickness, the height of the guide frame, etc.
The concept of "controlling the trajectory of the lure" is not yet common, so if this fishing method becomes more widespread, I think a more optimal setting will be found.
The Ideal is for the Lure to Fly by the Amount of Force Input
If the lure flies off with a sharp trajectory after just a light cast, it will be difficult to control the trajectory of the lure. If you just want to drop the lure where you want it without worrying about the sound of the lure landing on the water, you don't need to think too much about controlling the trajectory of the lure. When doing such fishing, I think it's best to use tackle that will send the lure flying with just a light cast.
But if I use this such tackle, I will make a lot of casting mistakes, and the smart bass in front of me will soon see that it is a lure. In my case, the above settings are essential for catching especially smart bass.
I couldn't get the same feeling by simply applying stronger brakes on the reel.
Three Elements
To catch smart bass of close range with this method, it is important to improve tackle setting, casting technique, and muscle strength necessary for casting, and to go at them in perfect condition to avoid casting mistakes. If you throw a lure without confidence, you will probably make a mistake and that bass will run away from you easily.
Here, I have written my thoughts on tackle setting among these three elements.
These settings are not intended for long distances. This is a very special setting for catching smart bass that is visible of close range using this method. I hope will find it useful.
Basically, this blog assumes the use of a voluminous single Colorado spinnerbait or voluminous buzzbait in the range of 5/8 ounces to 1 3/8 ounces.
